The Visa Diaries

What is the deal with businesses that produce things in cheaper countries turning around and hawking them here for premium prices? There are tons of examples I could think of, but I am referring specifically right now to John Robshaw textiles. My annoyance is heightened by the fact that I really like his things, I’d love to have more of them around my home, but they are too expensive! I am annoyed because they are traditional – for the most part Indian and Central Asian – designs, made in traditional ways, in those countries. We all know that he is probably paying about $.50 for a pillowcase that he turns around a retails for $100. His wares are beautiful, but its not because he has personally innovated or designed anything wonderful – he is selecting, appropriating, and refreshing from designs and production methods that craftspeople there have developed over centuries. (This funny article from NYMag points out the same for Madeline Weintraub, who is suing Pottery Barn for supposedly copying design from her that she copied from the Moors and Taksim people). Why does he get that mark-up? I mean, I understand a business making a profit, but couldn’t it be a reasonable one?

John Robshaw sheets from Anthropologie

I am realizing two things as I write this. One, there must be some extra level that he is adding in terms of curatorial eye and production quality, because even though you see other Indian-produced or Indian-inspired things around, they are generally not done as well. Either the quality isn’t as good, or the line isn’t as extensive and consistent. Or, they are even *more* expensive, like this precious little boutique not far from my house. As obvious as it seems it should be, doing a good job at any business is not all that common. Maybe its not actually necessary to be innovative, its only necessary to be competent.

Two, the fact that his products *look* Indian is probably contributing to my annoyance by making me think they should be cheaper. The fact is, just about everything I buy is probably produced for pennies in a country like India or China, and then marked up as far as the company can possibly manage before they sell it to me. But when a design looks more ‘Western’ or modern, it doesn’t remind me that it was produced somewhere else, and thus doesn’t remind me how much extra I am paying.

Three, maybe I’m just jealous. Maybe I should be traveling around the world and sourcing lovely home products. Yup, that’s probably it. His fey, self-satisfied product notes don’t help. For example “Crisp and graphic blocks still remind me of mountains and fruit orchards of Uzbekistan and my last trip spent working with the weavers. – John Robshaw” sort of makes me want to barf. Its like he wants to be a BBC correspondent or something.

Anyway, I recently acquired a set of his sheets from Anthropologie, for about half what they would go for direct from him. I also have 2 pillowcases, bought off Gilt.com at a similar mark-down. Every them I look at them I have mixed feelings. I love the colors, patterns, and warm, hand-made feel. And I am still annoyed at John.